Worsted Wool or Tweed?

This is a dilemma faced by generations of elegant dressers. Both cloths possess a sense of heritage, both command respect and both pay back their wearer in different ways. It's not a question of one outweighing the other, but of situation: where the jacket will be worn, what will you wear with it, and what impact are you hoping to make?

Personal preference is king, but if you’re looking for some time-honoured tips on why, when and where to wear Worsted Wool or Tweed, read on…

Tweed, although also wool, represents a very different heritage from Worsted Wool. Derived from the Scottish and Irish countryside, it is a remarkably durable performance fabric suited to cold, damp weather, which is why it is especially beloved of people who hunt, shoot and fish. Tweed jackets are warmer, heavier, rougher to grip and distinctive in their fleck, check and herringbone effects.

Tweed makes for clothing of substance, instilling in us a sense of heritage and longevity. Wearing tweed is a salute to a noble tradition of country sport, Highland estates and autumn walks. While wool is international, tweed is inextricably a country cloth.

A tweed jacket lends itself to easy tailoring, to being worn with cords, jeans or flannels, often with a bit of knitwear underneath.

Tweed production is primarily centred in the traditional communities of the Scottish islands, in Ireland’s wild Donegal region and in the rugged Scottish Borders. Most of the hundreds of estates in Scotland have their own tweed, and there are countless more besides. Tweed is lofty, nubbly and has an incredible depth of colour and texture. It offers almost endless possibilities in colour and style, but here are some of the main ones to look out for:

• Donegal Tweed – Set with sparkling ‘naps’, Donegal is lively but not flashy, so the jackets are noticeable but not distractingly so in casual or semi-dress situations.
• Harris Tweed – This most famous tweed is handwoven in the Outer Hebrides and is legally protected. A Harris Tweed jacket possesses richness of colour, astonishing durability and an unrivalled sense of authenticity.
• Shetland Tweed – Smaller and lighter than many tweeds, it is midweight and not too heavy — a good option for those who desire the beauty of tweed but not the bulk.
• Borders Tweed – Spun in the Scottish Borders from finest merino fibres, it provides a smooth, urbane finish which means that it can be worn in town or country.
• Cash Wool Tweed – These patterns are woven in merino and cashmere, moving tweed into the luxury category.
• Lambswool Tweeds – Soft, lightweight and very comfortable with plenty of drape, this tweed retains the depth of colour but has a softer, flatter finish. This makes a versatile suit which can be a lovely alternative to a traditional worsted cloth.

Wool is an incredibly versatile fibre that can be spun to make the finest suiting material. It hangs beautifully, drapes elegantly and can vary from a light summer cloth to a heavy material that will keep you warm on even the coldest winter’s day. Wool has traditionally been the cornerstone of tailoring because it breathes, insulates and resists creasing. The yarn is twisted and this strengthens it but also produces a lustre. Its power is in refinement, in having a crisp line and a finished appearance without bulk.

A wool jacket is just right for formal occasions, such as business or evening events. It is streamlined, lightweight, versatile and works well with dress pant and tie, easily moving from office through dinner and ceremony.

• Shetland Wool – Shetland sheep produce a heavy yarn that makes a robust but durable cloth that holds wonderful colour and gives texture. Ideal for tweed.
• Lambswool – Softer than Shetland, it gives more drape and comfort but loses some of the depth of colour and texture. A great yarn for a sophisticated tweed suit.
• Cashmere – As a fabric for a jacket, cashmere is unparalleled in softness and elegance. It's so delicate that it’s reserved for events of refinement rather than daily wear. This innovation is perfectly adapted for special occasion suiting.
• Merino – A classic suiting staple, merino wool jackets are breathable, comfortable and perfect for any time of year. Merino’s smooth nature makes it the go-to for formal wear.
• Angora – Its fluffiness means it’s almost never found in custom clothing, although it’s occasionally blended for a soft texture and is perhaps the sort of jacket a cat-stroking Bond villain might wear.
• Mohair – Lustrous, crisp and lightweight, mohair is often blended with wool to make jackets with a slight lustre and tight silhouette, in particular for after-dark wear. This yarn became very popular in the Sixties.
• Worsted Wool – Twisted when spun, this creates a very strong yarn and makes for an ideal work suit designed to be worn almost every day. It was a mainstay in the Forties and Fifties when suits were standard attire.

A worsted wool jacket, particularly in a classic navy, charcoal or black, is the foundation for a dress outfit. It is coupled with dress shirts, ties and dress pants for a powerful and gracious outfit.

Tweed jackets, though, lend themselves to a different style. They go well with country shades such as greens, browns and subdued reds. They look good accompanied by textural pieces like knitwear and brogues, and are best in casual situations where informality is the objective.

Tweeds, especially Donegal and Harris, add a depth to ensembles that might otherwise become bland. Tweed suits are a genuine alternative to the traditional suit and provide an opportunity to make a real statement through which type of tweed is chosen.

The weather is not a small consideration in choosing clothing.

Wool jackets, and especially thinner weaves, are comfortable enough to wear through the seasons and for unpredictable weather. A good quality merino jacket, for example, will hold you in good stead in the early autumn and spring.

Tweed, on the other hand, is a winter and late autumn fabric. It is heavy, cosy and impervious to the elements, so perfect for bad weather. A Harris or Shetland tweed jacket prevents the chill as well as presenting elegance well beyond the strictly practical.

If properly taken care of, a tweed coat will last for generations and will actually soften with age.

Wool coats, in finer cloths especially, reward soft care but are not sufficiently robust to match tweed’s extraordinary lifespan. They are coats of refinement, not longevity.

The question then is does one favour polish or ruggedness, or vice versa. A great many closets are correct in accommodating both.

Wool jackets generally come in single, plain hues such as navy, grey and black. Their elegance lies in their absence of ornamentation, which means they are a blank canvas for shirts and ties.

Tweed, conversely, exists and thrives on the patterns and contrasts of herringbone, windowpane, overcheck and the multicoloured dots of Donegal. These contribute a depth and wealth to tweed jackets that draws the eye without overwhelming.

Wool and tweed jackets aren't competitors, but complement each other. Wool offers the elegance of smooth lines, the versatility of year-round wear and the modest strength of classic tailoring, while tweed provides warmth, sturdiness and a personality rooted in landscape and heritage.

It is a city and country question, but we all know that there are days when only wool suffices, and days on which tweed is not only allowable but essential.