A Tailored, Made-to-Measure Suit
Each piece is created individually and hand measured to the client throughout the process. The Made-to-Measure service is comprehensive, and can cover any number of details and cloth choices, not to mention garment types.
First, the client chooses the cloth, it is important the cloth fits the occasion and the season. The cut then evolves from this initial selection, and the clients own preferences. Tailors Tip: The choosing of the cloth can take a number of visits; do not be rushed into making a decision. Viewing the cloth in daylight is important as it shows the true colour.
The style is discussed, with regard to the fastening: single or double breasted, one, two, three, or four button fastening. Detailing on the vents, the cuffs, the lapels, and the overall cut. Lining is chosen to match, or contrast, the cloth.
After the cloth and style have been selected, the client is initially measured. Dimensions are taken, and the configuration is detailed with regards to posture and proportion. For a three piece suit, nineteen separate measurements are taken, to ensure a precise fit.
A pattern is configured based on the measurements and preferences of the client, with the suit then cut from the cloth, and loosely baisted together to form a toille – a skeleton garment ready for fitting.
The first fitting should take around six to eight weeks to make. When it arrives, it has no lining or buttons and the trousers will be unfinished. The tailor fits each garment individually, noting how the proportions and dimensions have translated to the pattern. Often there is further measuring, pinning, and chalking to be done, to achieve the desired fit.
If the client prefers, the suit can arrive for a first fitting in the form of a “forward fitting”. This means the suit is almost finished, apart from buttons and buttonholes. This speeds up the process, and reduces the cost involved.
In either case, suit is then sent back to the workshop for finishing, where the last garment alterations, if required, are performed. The lining is pressed, and all the other details are completed. The suit is then hand finished, and made ready for the final fit.
The final fit happens is when the suit is ready to go. The store tailor will trim and finish the garment via steaming, brushing and pressing. For the final fitting, often the whole outfit is worn, including shirt, tie, and shoes – to make sure everything looks the part.
At this stage, it is possible to make those final, small adjustments. It all comes down to eighths and quarters of inches, to ensure a precise fit.
Your Own Fabric
We are able to make up garments from customers’ existing cloth. Whether Great Aunt Gertrude has some in her bottom drawer, or you have recently visited the Islands, we can measure and inspect it to see if it’s possible to make what you require. It is also interesting for us to see unusual fabrics! We have made suits from some unexpected cloths for some unexpected people.